June 12, 2024
“But I thought you were on Iona, Chris!” Well, yes I am but there are many islands in this region and over half of us at Iona this week took the option to go on a boat ride to see the famous uninhabited island of Staffa. Never heard of it? Well after this post you are sure to put it on your list next time you are in Scotland.
We set out on this boat around 1:45. Here are some of the folks from Iona who are part of Columba Week with me. After picking up some more people on Mull, we set out for the 45 minute boat ride to Staffa.
The weather could not have been more perfect! The crew said it was the first calm day the entire month. We will give credit to Columba to whom Iona monks often prayed for good weather and safe travels when heading out to sea.
The boat trip itself was stunning. We saw some incredible landscapes. A whale popped up its fin twice but it was too quick for me to get a picture. But the seals were more agreeable to photographs. Three of them were sunning themselves when we slowly passed by. I think they smiled for these pictures!
Then we came to Staffa. The name comes from an Old Norse word meaning wooden building staves which is how the basalt columns appeared to the Vikings. The unusual columns and caves were always seen as something special, perhaps even sacred in origin. You can only imagine what people thought up to 8,000 years ago when they saw this first view of the island.
The island started to become a tourist destination in the late 1700’s and quickly became a “must see” sight on the Highland Tour. Throughout the 19th century Staffa has had well-known visitors such as Queen Victoria, Jules Verne, Walter Scott, Joseph Turner, Robert Louis Stevenson, and Alfred Lord Tennyson. As you approach the island it truly is stunning.
These columns are made of a dark grey rock calls Basalt that formed from a lava flow 60 million years ago. As the 1200 degree liquid rock cooled, it hardened, shrank and fractures into a series of stone pillars. Geologists explain that if the cooling pattern had been the same, the rocks would have formed an exact geometric pattern of parallel six sided columns. But because they cooled at a slightly different rate, the columns vary in size and have a slight bend to them. Understanding this only added to my appreciation for beautiful formation.
When we dock we are given an hour and fifteen minutes to explore the uninhabited island. Really there are two main destinations. When you get off the boat you have to choose which way you will go.
I went to Fingal’s Cave first. There are actually several caves on the island but Fingal’s is the only one that is accessible to walk to. The caves were not created by people, but by waves crashing against the soft layer of volcanic ash underneath the basalt columns. From the boat the cave was stunning.
The walk took us on the basalt columns around the island. I was so grateful for the wire handrails that ensured I wouldn’t fall off into the sea. As you can see, it did get pretty narrow at times.
Other times there was no need for a handrail and I was waiting for each column to light up when I stepped on it.
Finally we turned the corner and peaked into the cave. It was even more breathtaking than what I had imagined.
The trail just went slightly into the cave but it didn’t go too far in. This was as close as I could get.
The official name of Fingal’s Cave is An Uamh Binn (Musical Cave). It is a natural cathedral and the acoustics are spectacular. One of our music leaders for the week sang into it and I had the chance to record a little bit. You have to hear past the water and waves but it’s worth a listen.
The sound is actually so inspiring that when Felix Mendohlson visited the cave in 1829 he wrote the Hebrides overture (Fingal’s Cave). Look it up!
In order to get to the next destination I had to climb all the way up the mountain right where that little person is on the upper left hand corner.
I traveled at the top of this island for about 10 minutes along the well worn trail.
The destination was to see the Puffins. Oh my goodness, these little birds are the cutest ever!
I’m going to overload you with these little guys so get ready. They LOVE people and actually fly to come near to us when they know we are around. My room mate took this picture of me near them.
June is when their chicks hatch so there are hundreds of them all nesting this time of year.
They have the tiniest wings that just flap away and somehow they get airborne.
I even took a few videos. Look at when they walk they bounce up and down.
They often stayed close to each other in small groups. This pair was too precious.
Ok, one more video of these cuties!
And the BEST picture of all…
I tore myself away and said goodbye to the puffins to descend the cliff down the stairs back to the boat and the 45 minutes boat ride back to Iona. Seriously, if you ever have the chance to go to Staffa in May through July, don’t miss it! Just make sure it’s a calm, sunny day.
The PCUSA Pilgrim Pastor 
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